About this collection
- Despite its European origins, plaid developed distinctly American incarnations. Pennsylvania’s Woolrich Woolen Mills first made a buffalo plaid (red and black checked) shirt during the 1850s, and Oregon’s Pendleton Woolen Mills became known for its plaids starting in the 1860s. The association with early 20th-century outdoorsmen and loggers conjures visions of lumberjacks and the fabled giant, Paul Bunyan, in plaid flannel shirts. For many, plaid has come to symbolize rugged masculinity and wholesome American heritage.The newest incarnation of the classic lumberjack is known as the “urban woodsman,” and is just one brand of the 21st-century hipster. This look necessitates the flannel, boots, and beard of yesteryear, combined with a modern lifestyle., Gift of Barbara Thatcher Williams, 2006.28.16. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- Burberry of London’s tan tartan is iconic. Founded in 1856, the company began lining its famous trench coats with the distinct plaid during the 1920s.Today, the plaid, or “house check” is employed in various colorways, but it’s always recognizable. Although some would argue that the pattern became overused as a status symbol and thus cheapened the brand, its popularity has recently surged. Burberry’s Fall 2017 ready-to-wear runway was filled with the house check and other tartans once again, and the singer and fashion icon Rihanna was seen wearing items from the collection, head to toe. In 2018, the company’s President, Christopher Bailey, reissued designs from the 1980s and 1990s, including many fully checked garments, as his last collection for the brand., Coat: Burberry. Worn in Cleveland by June Isquick. Gift of B. Scott Isquick in Memory of June Isquick, 1997.1.10. Wrap: Burberry. Worn in Cleveland by Honey Feinberg. Gift of the Honey B. Feinberg Estate, 2016.20.2. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- Today’s tailored kilt descended from the “great plaid” worn by Scotland’s highland poor as far back as the 16th century. The word plaid in that case referred not to the pattern but to a length of fabric, belted and wrapped around the body. During the late 1720s, it was actually an Englishman whose love of Scotland inspired his creation of the modern “small kilt.” This uncertain history forgotten, Clevelanders wear kilts in celebration of a continued connection to Scotland. In 1941, Colina Anderson wore her kilt when she was the country’s award-winning “tiniest dancer,” and WCLV co-founder Cecil Patrick wore his highland costume while playing the bagpipes at Ohio’s 1990 Scottish games., Worn in Cleveland by Colina Anderson. Gift of Tony Sumodi, 2017.16.1. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- Victoria became England’s queen in 1837 and began visiting the highlands a few years later. In 1848 she and Prince Albert leased Scotland’s Balmoral Castle and decorated with Royal Stewart and other tartans. Two new tartans were developed in her honor, Victoria and Balmoral and, subsequently, plaid became an international fashion trend. Everyday people could follow royal fashions in the newspapers and popular magazines such as Godey’s Lady’s Book. Victoria’s love of plaid even pervaded Ohio style during the 1850s. Wealthier women worked with their dressmakers to turn yards of plaid silk into the full-skirted confections seen here., Worn in Cleveland by Elizabeth Cowles. Gift of Mrs. Arthur Loesser, 56.169. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- Bright and unusual colors can bring a design to life: Mainbocher gilded a plaid evening jacket; Nina Ricci gave an otherwise traditional dress an electric blue hue; Bill Blass chose a neon hue for this fun ruffled dress; and Norman Norell created a bright, bombastic check. Traditionally, plaid is woven, but other methods can produce the design. Missoni’s famous knitwear offers a sweater-soft plaid, and the design of this printed silk dress appears hand-painted., Worn in Cleveland by Michaeline Maschke. The Mrs. Maurice Maschke, Jr. Collection, 86.94.2. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- In the 20th century and today, fashion designers bring imagination to even the most traditional plaids and tartans. Although it might seem like an innocent alteration, Pierre Cardin’s tartan turned on a diagonal could be considered subversive. Because a tartan’s design, or “sett,” is conventionally read upright, Cardin transforms the design, as a matter of style. Other designers playfully use plaid in their work: in this bright red ensemble, the tartan has been so enlarged that the twill weave becomes part of the pattern, almost obscuring the sett. Bill Blass combined two plaids to create an entirely new pattern, proving that tradition can be reinvented., Worn in Cleveland by Dorothy Ceruti. Gift of Dorothy Ceruti, 93.53.4. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- Bright and unusual colors can bring a design to life: Mainbocher gilded a plaid evening jacket; Nina Ricci gave an otherwise traditional dress an electric blue hue; Bill Blass chose a neon hue for this fun ruffled dress; and Norman Norell created a bright, bombastic check. Traditionally, plaid is woven, but other methods can produce the design. Missoni’s famous knitwear offers a sweater-soft plaid, and the design of this printed silk dress appears hand-painted., Gift of Mrs. Jack J. Bloch, 78.117.2. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- Victoria became England’s queen in 1837 and began visiting the highlands a few years later. In 1848 she and Prince Albert leased Scotland’s Balmoral Castle and decorated with Royal Stewart and other tartans. Two new tartans were developed in her honor, Victoria and Balmoral and, subsequently, plaid became an international fashion trend. Everyday people could follow royal fashions in the newspapers and popular magazines such as Godey’s Lady’s Book. Victoria’s love of plaid even pervaded Ohio style during the 1850s. Wealthier women worked with their dressmakers to turn yards of plaid silk into the full-skirted confections seen here., Gift of George Bierce, 43.5333. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- Today’s tailored kilt descended from the “great plaid” worn by Scotland’s highland poor as far back as the 16th century. The word plaid in that case referred not to the pattern but to a length of fabric, belted and wrapped around the body. During the late 1720s, it was actually an Englishman whose love of Scotland inspired his creation of the modern “small kilt.” This uncertain history forgotten, Clevelanders wear kilts in celebration of a continued connection to Scotland. In 1941, Colina Anderson wore her kilt when she was the country’s award-winning “tiniest dancer,” and WCLV co-founder Cecil Patrick wore his highland costume while playing the bagpipes at Ohio’s 1990 Scottish games., Highland Outfitters, Hugh McPherson Ltd. Worn in Cleveland by Cecil Patrick. Gift of Mrs. Nancy Patrick, 2002.1.1. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- Plaid makes its annual comeback when cold weather arrives. Cozy wool skirts and coats bring warmth and cheer to the winter season. Cleveland’s Steve Cagliostro Jr. even designed his own wool jacket for Christmas Day while working for the menswear brand Joseph & Feiss. Many American families carry on a tradition of pulling out the same garment each year at holiday time. For some, the festivities provide an excuse to wear a vibrant pattern such as Chisholm Halle’s Buchanan tartan pants. Others use holiday parties as an excuse to wear something new, such as this 1976 plaid jumpsuit., Joseph & Feiss Co. Worn in Cleveland by Steve Cagliostro, Jr. Gift of Teresa Romano, 1999.31.11. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- The bright red Royal Stewart tartan is one of the most iconic and classic plaids. The very same tartan was used to make an 1850s dressing gown, also in the exhibit. That rich silk uses a more subtle color palette than this bright fabric, woven 100 years later. Clevelander Emma Lincoln wore this dress during the 1950s. When not attending parties in fabulous fashions, she worked as a lawyer, mastered many languages, traveled the world, and raised a family. Emma was a remarkable woman, and her generosity to the WRHS will be remembered and treasured., Worn in Cleveland by Emma Lincoln. Gift of Emma Lincoln, 2002.17.7. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.
- Despite its European origins, plaid developed distinctly American incarnations. Pennsylvania’s Woolrich Woolen Mills first made a buffalo plaid (red and black checked) shirt during the 1850s, and Oregon’s Pendleton Woolen Mills became known for its plaids starting in the 1860s. The association with early 20th-century outdoorsmen and loggers conjures visions of lumberjacks and the fabled giant, Paul Bunyan, in plaid flannel shirts. For many, plaid has come to symbolize rugged masculinity and wholesome American heritage.The newest incarnation of the classic lumberjack is known as the “urban woodsman,” and is just one brand of the 21st-century hipster. This look necessitates the flannel, boots, and beard of yesteryear, combined with a modern lifestyle., Shirt: Kentcrest. Gift of Arthur Born, 73.44.13. Jacket: Pendleton. Worn in Cleveland by Allen Mednik. Gift of Mrs. Allen Mednik, 91.74.34. Featured in "Mad for Plaid" Exhibit.